North America architectural (reading) guide

In what feels like half an eternity away, I lived in the States for two years from 2013-2015. Having caught the architecture bug in Tokyo before, I set out to explore the places I lived in and traveled to with an eye for important buildings and their stories. There is probably no better place in the world to satisfy these passions than New York. During countless rectilinear walks, I tried to learn about the city via its architecture. I did so from our base in Harlem, which then became the blog’s mainstay for a while.

Let’s start with the modernist jewels, the Lever House and the Seagram Building (whose iconic Four Seasons restaurant closed its doors in 2016). I wrote a lot about verticality and inequality, e.g., about the controversial middle finger, the Sky High exhibition, the new WTC and NYC’s soul and again on the World Trade Center. 375 Pearl Street piqued my curiosity, as did the the ominous Criminal Courts Building. Panoramic views from the Empire State Building were best for getting an overview.

Working my way uptown, I was fascinated by the Borg cube-like hospital and its scarring visual impact on New York’s green lung in Mount Sinai vs. Central Park. One of this blog’s most read posts is about Schomburg Plaza (a residential tower at the top of Central Park) and its controversial history. Cutting west from there is another bastion of law enforcement, the Lincoln Correctional Facility. Further afield, I took a stroll around the 1964 New York World’s Fair ground in Queens with a friend of mine.

In Harlem, I stepped outside our door to learn more about History on Seventh Avenue, wrote on Hamilton Grange, Strivers’ Row, Harlem housing projects, the State Office Building on 125th, and explored the the spiritural side of Harlem, prompted not only by walking past many houses of worship, but also living on top of one. I returned to Harlem in spirit after reading a few related books more recently, discussing the Hotel Theresa (Fidel Castro and his entourage stayed there during their visit in the 1960s) in a little bit more detail.

Outside of New York, a trip to Chicago produced one post on Mies’s Chicago Federal Center. The former Iranian Embassy on Massachusetts Avenue in Washington, D.C. was a staple on my cycle home when I lived in the US capital. Two additional modernist masterpieces were Habitat 67 in Montreal and Peabody Terrace in Cambridge, Mass.

I am simultaneously dreading and yearning to return to New York one day, particularly Harlem. Dreading because of the steamroller of gentrification and the real estate state having shifted up a gear since. Yearning, well, because it’s New York, and its people usually being very good at overcoming the trials and tribulations of what’s thrown their way, eventually. Maybe the mayoral elections 2025 are an auspicious sign in that respect, and yes, maybe it’s time to go back!

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